Geoff Wilsons Knots Rigs
Rigs for Bream Running Sinker Rigs:
A. The most basic rig for bream is a simple rig which is achieved by first threading a small ball or bean sinker onto the line before tying on the hook.
B. The running sinker rig is achieved by threading a ball or bean sinker of sufficient weight for either casting into the wash on a surf beach, or anchoring your bait in the current of an estuary.
C. Feeder rigs may be used for bream. This example is a closed feeder rig for slow berley dispersal. In this case the hook is baited with blow flu maggots which would also be a component of the berley.
Rigging for Bream
A useful knot with which to build your bream rigs is something I call the
This is a very simple knot to tie with adequate strength for most fishing situations.
Thread the eye of your hook or swivel with your line and encircle the main line or standing part with the tag.
Pass the tag back over the two encirclements and thread it through both.
Now, wrap the tag around the remaining double strand.
Then, pulling the tag against the hook or swivel, close the knot so that the hook or swivel is isolated on a loop.
Using a Uni Knot to attach new line to your reel is dead easy.
- Should you be using an egg-beater or threadline reel, simply open the bail arm and wrap the loop around the arbour of the spool a couple of times before forming the Uni Knot.
2. Pull the knot up tight on the spool and close the bail arm
When attaching gelspun lines, either braided or fused, it is advisable to make several additional wraps around the spool, and – when using gelspun lines on game fishing tackle – wrapping a small amount of adhesive electricians tape around the bare spool before winding the line on will prevent the line from revolving on the spool with heavy drag settings.
Baiting up in a manner that secures the bait, yet proudly displays the hook, is important to maximise the bite to capture ratio. This is a demonstration of baiting up with a fish fillet.
- First take the fillet from your bait fish. If the baitfish weighs 100 grams or so, the whole fillet may be used. Fillets taken from fish that are significantly larger than this may provide several baits when appropriately cut and trimmed to shape.
The use of lead-cored line or lead-core line– the former being the earlier terminology, the latter being the current term – allows the angler to troll lures at some depth below the surface of the water and vary that depth by varying their trolling speed, and length of line out, without additional paraphernalia like down-rigging weights or paravanes.
Lead-core line consists of a continuous strand of lead wire inside a hollow, braided line. The dacron is coloured-coded with a colour change every ten yards (9 metres) so the angler knows how much line is out.
Lead-core, dacron-sheathed lines come in various sizes from 12 pounds (5.5 kg) to 45 pounds (21 kg) breaking strain. The lead wire remains the same for all line sizes so the lighter gauge lead-cored lines will run deeper than the heavier ones, that’s provided trolling speed, leader and lure size remain the same.
Lead-cored lines should be loop-spliced at each end. One end being attached to the backing, or fishing line already on the reel, the other end being attached to a monofilament leader several metres long which can also be wound onto the reel. The lure or baited hook is attached to this leader.
It would be injudicious of me not to point out that lead core lines and related products like single strand monel and stainless wire lines should be fish from revolving drum reels and not on threadline or egg-beater type reels because of the inherent tendency of threadline reels to impart twist to the line; inconvenient with monofilament and gelspun lines, catastrophic with metal lines or lines that have a metallic core.
Needle: A fine loop-splicing needle – or a length of .014″ (0.356 mm) – stainless wire bent double to form a needle, and a fast-curing glue.
1. Expose the lead core and push the Dacron back to expose around 25 cm or 10 inches of the lead wire. Be careful in doing this because it will break if roughly handled.
2. Cut, or break off, the exposed length of lead wire.
3. Extend the dacron sleeve to its former position. This will leave you with 25 cm or so of hollow dacron to make your first loop splice.
4. About 10 cm (4 inches) from where the lead core finishes, push your Top Shot loop-splicing needle into the weave toward the remaining lead core and thread the eye with the dacron tag. Naturally, should you be using piece of bent wire, you will have to work – eye first – in the opposite direction.
5. Work your loop-splicing needle all the way up to where the lead wire ends, but put a loop gauge, or pencil as I have done, into the loop so that it won’t close completely.
7. Smear the tag with glue, bearing in mind that fast curing glues require minimal application.
8. Slide the dacron down quickly so the glued tag slides inside and bonds.
9. Shown is a representation of a lead-cored line loop-spliced at each end. Of course the second loop won’t be made just yet.
11. Then pass the spool or lead core through the loop in your monofilament leader.
12. So that now you have a simple loop to loop connection.
14. Give it a half twist.
15. And pass the spool of lead core through.
16. . Shown is the finished connection: Of course you could just use a Cat’s Paw which is probably what most would do, but this is a useful variation I thought I would pass on.
After attaching your hook, in this case to a 30 lb Berkley Fireline leader, take a No 35, or similar size, rubber band, cut it and attached the single strand of rubber to your hook in the manner shown.
1. The next step is to make a simple baiting needle which I accomplished by twisting a bent length of either 0.7 or 0.8 galvanised tied wire into the shape shown and trimming off the excess.
2. Begin by pushing the wire baiting needle, loop-first through the eye tunnel of the fishes head.
3. Thread one leg of the rubber through the loop in the wire.
4. Retract the wire pulling the leg of rubber with it.
5. Push the wire baiting needle through the eye tunnel once more, but from the opposite side, then thread the wire loop once more.
6. Pulling gently on both strands, secure the hook on top of the fish head.
7. Tie both strands off under the fish head using a Granny Knot.
8. The finished bait looks like this.
9. You can easily see from this diagram how effectively the rig works when tension comes on the line.