Rigging and Trolling with Lead-core Lines For Trout

August 6, 2012 by

The use of lead-cored line or lead-core line– the former being the earlier terminology, the latter being the current term – allows the angler to troll lures at some depth below the surface of the water and vary that depth by varying their trolling speed, and length of line out, without additional paraphernalia like down-rigging weights or paravanes.

Lead-core line consists of a continuous strand of lead wire inside a hollow, braided line. The dacron is coloured-coded with a colour change every ten yards (9 metres) so the angler knows how much line is out.

Lead-core, dacron-sheathed lines come in various sizes from 12 pounds (5.5 kg) to 45 pounds (21 kg) breaking strain. The lead wire remains the same for all line sizes so the lighter gauge lead-cored lines will run deeper than the heavier ones, that’s provided trolling speed, leader and lure size remain the same.

Lead-cored lines should be loop-spliced at each end. One end being attached to the backing, or fishing line already on the reel, the other end being attached to a monofilament leader several metres long which can also be wound onto the reel. The lure or baited hook is attached to this leader.

It would be injudicious of me not to point out that lead core lines and related products like single strand monel and stainless wire lines should be fish from revolving drum reels and not on threadline or egg-beater type reels because of the inherent tendency of threadline reels to impart twist to the line; inconvenient with monofilament and gelspun lines, catastrophic with metal lines or lines that have a metallic core.

Materials:
Needle: A fine loop-splicing needle – or a length of .014″ (0.356 mm) – stainless wire bent double to form a needle, and a fast-curing glue.

1. Expose the lead core and push the Dacron back to expose around 25 cm or 10 inches of the lead wire. Be careful in doing this because it will break if roughly handled.

2. Cut, or break off, the exposed length of lead wire.

3. Extend the dacron sleeve to its former position. This will leave you with 25 cm or so of hollow dacron to make your first loop splice.

4. About 10 cm (4 inches) from where the lead core finishes, push your Top Shot loop-splicing needle into the weave toward the remaining lead core and thread the eye with the dacron tag. Naturally, should you be using piece of bent wire, you will have to work – eye first – in the opposite direction.

5. Work your loop-splicing needle all the way up to where the lead wire ends, but put a loop gauge, or pencil as I have done, into the loop so that it won’t close completely.


6. Withdraw your loop-splicing needle and dacron tag taking care that the tag does not slide back inside the dacron sleeve.

7. Smear the tag with glue, bearing in mind that fast curing glues require minimal application.

8. Slide the dacron down quickly so the glued tag slides inside and bonds.

9. Shown is a representation of a lead-cored line loop-spliced at each end. Of course the second loop won’t be made just yet.


10. Having tied a loop on your monofilament leader A, thread it through the loop already spliced in your lead-cored line.

11. Then pass the spool or lead core through the loop in your monofilament leader.

12. So that now you have a simple loop to loop connection.

13. Extend the loop in your monofilament leader.

14. Give it a half twist.

15. And pass the spool of lead core through.

16. . Shown is the finished connection: Of course you could just use a Cat’s Paw which is probably what most would do, but this is a useful variation I thought I would pass on.

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